Day 1 - Lisbon hills
Ride Tram 28 through the Alfama, then the castle overlook. Afternoon the Belem pastries and the monastery. Evening fado and grilled sardines in a tavern. Sleep in the center to ride the hills on foot and tram.
Day 2 - Day trip south
Train to Sintra for palaces and Quinta da Regaleira gardens. Lunch of travesseiros pastry in town. Return for a seafood dinner by the river. Keep the evening light to recover before the northbound leg.
Day 3 - To Porto
Take the fast train north to Porto, base near the river. Walk the Ribeira and cross the Dom Luis bridge. Afternoon a port cellar tour in Vila Nova de Gaia. Evening a francesinha for a heavy, hearty bite. Stay two nights.
Day 4 - Douro and tiles
Boat or train into the Douro Valley for terraced vineyards and lunch at a quinta. Afternoon the Sao Bento station tiles and a bookshop. Evening a relaxed river dinner. Return with a bottle or two of tawny.
Day 5 - Exit via the river
A last Porto cafe breakfast, then train back or to the airport. Final shopping for port and azulejo tiles. Keep the afternoon open for transit. A last custard tart sends you off sweetly. Pack light; you will have bought a tin or two of sardines.
Daily food picks
Eat pasteis de nata warm, grilled sardines by the coast, and bacalhau in a dozen forms. Porto answers with francesinha and tripe stew. Vinho Verde is the summer white; port is the nightcap. Markets sell cheese, fruit, and flowers each morning. Seafood marisqueiras steam clams and crab by the plate.
Getting around & budget
Trains link Lisbon and Porto in about three hours; book ahead for the cheapest fares. Both centers are walkable with hills, so wear good shoes. Budget 90 to 150 euros daily with a mid-range hotel and tram fares. Tram 28 is crowded; ride early or late to enjoy the view without the crush.
