Signature dishes
Bacalhau, salted cod, appears in countless forms such as baked with potatoes, cream, and olives. Caldo verde is a green soup of kale, potato, and chourico sausage. Francesinha is a meat-laden sandwich covered in beer sauce from Porto. Pasteis de nata are custard tarts with caramelized tops from Lisbon. Grilled sardines are street fare in summer. Rice pudding and octopus, often stewed with olive oil, complete meals.
Where to eat it
Tascas are modest neighborhood restaurants serving daily fish and stews. Cervejarias specialize in seafood and cold beer with grilled shellfish. Pastry shops sell pasteis de nata warm from the oven. Mercados offer fresh fish, fruit, and flowers each morning. Bifanas stalls serve pork sandwiches at counters. Coastal towns have marisqueiras with steamed clams and crab. Bakeries bake broa corn bread and sweet rabanadas daily.
Drinks & pairings
The Douro Valley produces port, a fortified wine served with cheese or dessert. Vinho Verde is a light, fizzy young wine for seafood. Alentejo yields ripe reds for roasted meats. Madeira is an oxidized island wine used in cooking and sipping. House red and white wines are cheap and plentiful. Espresso ends meals; ginjinha cherry liqueur is a Lisbon street drink.
Etiquette & tips
Service may be included; otherwise leave small change. Dinner is late, often after eight. Greet with bom dia and boa noite. Meals are leisurely and shared. Bread, butter, and olives arrive first and are charged unless refused. Knife and fork stay in hand; hands rest above the table. Tipping rounding is appreciated but never required in casual spots.
