What to expect
From late November, central squares fill with wooden stalls, lights, and the smell of mulled wine and roasted nuts. Each city has its own style, from Nuremberg's gingerbread to Vienna's grand avenues. Carols and brass bands play in the evenings. Ice rinks and ferris wheels appear in larger towns. Dress warmly, because you will spend hours outside browsing and sipping.
What to eat and drink
Glühwein is mulled wine served in a keepsake mug for a deposit. Try roasted chestnuts, bratwurst, and sweet chimney cake. Gingerbread, stollen, and pralines make edible gifts. Savory plates like kartoffelpuffer pancakes fuel cold walks. Pace the wine and eat as you go, because the market is a long, delicious wander rather than a seated meal.
Tips for travelers
Go midweek and early December to avoid the pre-holiday crush. The two weeks before Christmas are the busiest and priciest for hotels. Carry cash for stalls that skip cards. Return the mug or keep it as a souvenir. Book lodging near the square to walk back warm. A single market makes a magical half day; string two or three cities for a full festive route by train.
